June 20th – Day 18 – Darby to Wisdom

As we ascended up to Lost Trail Pass, vehicles moving the opposite way were swiftly descending. A long standing concern I have while riding is not so much a direct hit from a vehicle but being hit by a vehicle out of control due to an accident with another vehicle or event, like a flat tire or hitting something in the road. That fear is real now watching the speed of descending vehicles and knowing the presence of wildlife. I pray I will live to ride another day and keep spinning.

 

A few miles later, Drew points out a gorgeous buck off to our left and I turn my camera on this time. I don’t want to miss the flight we witnessed earlier. He prances further up the hill and then jumps onto the road. NO!! I bring the bike to quick halt and here it comes. A semi comes around the corner with two vehicles behind it. He lays on the horn. The buck is now straddling the middle line and looks towards the truck. Oh how I don’t want to witness this. And as if no one is around, he prances back to the forest, jumps over the fence and moves on. It takes a few moments to compose myself and bring my heart rate back down. That was a true fight or flight response.

 

Now onward. Climb, climb, climb. We are so grateful to be riding Salsa Warbird gravel bikes. They handle so well and the gearing is amazing. I am traveling at 3.5 mph and at one point, I decide to walk a bit. I can feel the altitude and get a little wobbly with the crosswind gusts. Better safe than sorry. I hear the squeak of trees rubbing against one another, the metal expanding on the guard rails when the sun hits and something that sounds like a rainbird in the middle of the forest. I pause a minute to listen. Eventually, the sound changes and seems like an alarm call by a squirrel or small animal.

 

Traveling past the Lost Pass ski resort, we come to a rest stop at Lost Trail Pass. And it begins to snow!! We shelter in place and wait for it to pass. On a rock just behind the bathroom, a chipmunk sat like a statute. Was he frozen in place? A few minutes later, the sun comes out and he hops to another location, stretching his little paw high into the sky as if he’d just awakened from a nap. And off he goes!! 

Now, we head for Chief Joseph Pass. Another crest and then the reward-the descent. How the miles tick away at the higher speeds! Concerned deer may enter the road in our way, I chime the bell on my bike at intervals. It resonates and my hope it will alert wildlife well in advance. Back onto a flat area, it begins to rain. We are at least 20 miles from anything should we try to find shelter in the trees or ride on? Ride on. Once again, it’s time for business, not touring. Watching surfaces like the slippery white fog line and for traffic, coming and going, Drew is pulling into a headwind at nearly 25 mph. Rain is hitting our glasses. We’re not cold because we’re working hard. “Watch for rocks” Mark Benson told me. I am on high alert, super focused and trying to stay on Drew’s wheel. We ride out of the rain. Just beyond, Drew spots two sandhill cranes in a stream and stops for the photo.

A few rollers and a high mountain meadow appears!! I am speechless. Conjure in your mind what heaven looks like and that’s where we are. Stopping to capture a photo of the snow capped mountains was met with a Rottweiler barreling down a driveway towards us, teeth barred. I’m yelling ‘no’ in my most commanding way when Drew blows the air horn towards him. He slows at the top of the driveway and we are now a bit beyond. There’s always a little bit left in the tank if you need it. Thank goodness!!!

Big Hole National Battlefield comes up on our left. Another story of the unsuccessful escape of the Nez Perce people. There is so much history to learn and so much more enjoyable to see the real locations. We’re getting close to Wisdom and see huge rolls of hay. Fascinating!

Our camp for the night is the American Legion Memorial Park managed by volunteers. We swing by to check it out and then head into town for food. It’s been quite the day!

Based on the cars, it looks like Antler Saloon is where the locals are.

Within minutes, Bucky, the bartender and chef, have two cold Two Towns peach ciders in front of us. A meat lovers pizza for Drew and chicken nachos for me and we’re happy campers!

So fun to watch the locals come and go, always sitting at the bar. Bucky knows every one of them and what they drink. One drink and they’re on their way. They’re conversations are interesting, each checking on the other to make sure they’re doing okay. A real sense of community. Friendly too. They asked about us and answered so many questions like helping us identify the yellow-headed blackbird and sandhill crane.

The blackbirds are so colorful and have quite the vocabulary. They greeted us just outside of town and chatted amongst each other the whole way in. At the saloon, we met Johnny Hollard who tells us he’s a songwriter. He had cycled at one time as well. His son is in the USMC.

With full tummies and left overs, it’s back to camp to set up for the night. We are along a stream so we work quickly to avoid mosquitoes. The wind is blowing so we positions behind a structure. With everything in the tent and bikes secured, we talk about the day’s experiences and what is yet to come. The limited cell reception has made it difficult to share our adventures but we’ll keep things coming your way at every opportunity.

Until tomorrow…