June 14th – Orofino to Wild Goose

53.56 miles. 1,268 Total accent

Totals: 606.8 miles. 21,648 Total accent. 52.10 hours in the saddle.

 

Happy Flag Day!!

Across the river is a cemetery and flags are everywhere! So good to see their direction as it means a tailwind today!

With the tent and roads a bit wet, roll out was close to 9 this morning.

A swallows nest was neatly tucked under the pitch of the roof and little furry moss things were hanging on the edge of the concrete patio

Once packed, it was east on Highway 12 again. Not before long, we came across a road construction area and we were waved towards the front. The flagman and the pilot car spoke and we were told it was safest to load the bikes into the bed of the truck and ride to the end of the road closure so up went our heavy stead’s. Drew sat between them on the ice chest as I climbed into the cab. And what an amazing 10 minutes this was.

Our driver was a beautiful, native American woman. She asked about our travels and I about her home. She explained she continues to practice many of the traditional activities of her heritage, like fishing with nets, eating a type of moss and ‘smudging’ daily. She went on to say how it cleansed the mind of evil thoughts, the mouth from hurtful words, the heart from bitterness. She shared smudging with her colleagues at work daily so they all would have a blessed day. She then went on to ask if I was a spiritual person and I replied yes. Our trip now complete, she reached for a beautifully wrapped bundle of white sage and gave it to me. Wow! Such an amazing, priceless gift. Somehow, in such a short time, we bonded so very deeply. Outside the truck, we unloaded the bikes and before departing hugged each other as lifetime friends do wondering if we’d ever see each other again. My life had just changed. I can’t even begin to explain how something like this happens. There are people who touch you in such a special way. I will never forget her.

The next several miles passed in somewhat of a blur. It was cool and cloudy…perfect cycling weather. At about mile 24, we were ready for our second cup of coffee. Fog Hill coffee shop had an amazing cafe mocha and Drew enjoy a vanilla latte.

Recharged, on we went.

A little further down the road, we arrive in Kooskia. There was a well stocked grocery store where we restocked our supplies. Just when my bike was getting lighter!! Drew stayed outside with the bikes , chatting with the locals while I went inside. What to buy? Some things were simple like instant oatmeal for breakfast and chunky peanut butter. Honey crisp apples are always a favorite. Wanting a little variety with breakfast I found Nutella and honey. Well, then tortillas would make a great wrap for a bike snack, right Zachary?! The lime Tostitos and Harvest Snaps green peas jumped into the basket and next up was the cheese isle. Tillamook white cheddar sounded so good but we have no refrigeration. So one slice each individually packaged would have to do. Angry Orchard cider and the shopping was complete.

One of the locals shared a different, easier route back to the highway and we are thankful for his guidance.

Next was the Nez Perce “Heart of the Monster” monument where park volunteers Ellie and Sue explained the story of the Nee-Me-Poo. This was their birthplace some 10,000 years ago. Ellie tells the story of powerful coyote. I want to read so much more about this. Right now, I’m grasping to capture as much as possible so I can revisit.

There are so many things I’ve never seen like a trolley that travels across the river. It appears that people who live on the south side of the middle fork of the Clearwater river leave their vehicles on the north side along the highway and travel by trolley to the opposite side of the river where their home is. Quite fascinating to see!

It’s a wonder we get to our destination each night. Everywhere I turn, there’s something to photograph! Like the magnificent collection of old trucks with vines growing through them.

And just beyond was a T Rex statue on the corner of a house. Cyclists are often described as looking like them as our hips and legs are proportionately larger than our upper bodies. How could I not capture that?!

Alas, Wild Goose campsite. Nestled just off the road amongst towering pines, this small campsite was nearly empty. It was available on a first come, first serve basis. Site 5 offered a view of the river, a nice flat spot for the tent and not far from the bathrooms. No electricity. No internet. Drinking water and pit toilets only. I must say, it was the cleanest, nicest pit toilet I’ve ever seen. The air freshener hanging on the wall was pleasant. No odors. Wow.

We see a sandy edge along the river and plan to relax there after setting up camp. 15 minutes later, we found ourselves along the river’s edge watching the sun set while small birds skimmed the water’s surface. As we returned to camp, one last gift was bestowed upon us-a pair of Canadian geese with their hatchlings. How could the day be any more perfect!!